Good points on signal vs. noise in web design. May I add that using Mozilla or Netscape 7.01 wich block the annoying ad popups may help too?
However, you're really unfair about the city. I'm confortably reading your article in my couch with broadband and wireless access in my flat in... Paris ;-). Nothing you cited in this article is specific to Paris or France, I've had the same experience in New York with slow and expensive dial up connections.
May be you're right about the restaurants. They're as remote as possible from... fast food :).
Next time, just prepare a little bit and pick a better season. I'd be delighted to help you discover the city of light AND broadband.