Very well put--"fascination with complexity!" I'm concerned that it's described equally well as "aversion to simplicity." As if developing a "simple" framework was "beneath" some people. It would make them--horrors!--like Microsoft, and we don't want that, do we? Imagine, making a template framework that could be used by an HTML designer directly, without developer intervention for every little page tweak! Why, it would allow developers to concentrate on working on CODE rather than on fixing presentation layer issues that arise because putting JSPs in the hands of page designers is a recipe for disaster! But we wouldn't want THAT, would we? Think of what it would do to "job security" (through "job obscurity?")
I haven't played with Tapestry yet, but it sounds like a good idea, judging from what you've said. You shouldn't dismiss JSP yet, though. Never mind the bloated JSF--the JSTL standard tag library gives you the kind of power you really want in a JSP framework. And it plays well with Struts already. Foreach iteration and conditional constructs plus XML processing and SQL queries.
Why is it scoffed at? I guess it's not complex enough! Plus, it resembles the dreaded COLD FUSION, a template framework known for... making simple things simple. The horror! How dreadful! We can't have SIMPLE frameworks, we "need" baroquely ornate code that not even the original developers can document properly, flexible enough to do everything but incapable in the end of doing anything. :-(